Cisheingxenye yezimpahla zomhlaba yenziwe nge-polyester futhi i-Greenpeace ibikezela ukuthi leli nani lizocishe liphindeke kabili ngo-2030. Kungani? Umkhuba wokusubatha uma esinye sezizathu eziyinhloko ngemuva kwawo: inani elandayo labathengi libheka izingubo ezilula, ezingazweli. Inkinga iwukuthi, i-polyester ayiyona inketho yendwangu esimeme, njengoba yenziwe nge-polyethylene terephthalate (PET), uhlobo oluvame kakhulu lwepulasitiki emhlabeni. Ngamafuphi, izingubo zethu eziningi zivela kuwoyela ongahluziwe, kuyilapho i-Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) ifuna ukuba kuthathwe izinyathelo ezinqala zokugcina izinga lokushisa lomhlaba lifinyelela ku-1.5 °C ngaphezu kwamazinga angaphambi kwezimboni.

Eminyakeni emithathu edlule, inhlangano engenzi nzuzo i-Textile Exchange yaphonsela inselelo izinkampani zendwangu, izingubo kanye nezitolo ezingaphezu kuka-50 (kuhlanganise nemidondoshiya efana ne-Adidas, H&M, Gap kanye ne-Ikea) ukuthi zandise ukusetshenziswa kwazo kwe-polyester egaywe kabusha ngamaphesenti angama-25 ngo-2020. Kusebenzile: ngenyanga edlule , le nhlangano ikhiphe isitatimende ibungaza ukuthi abasayinayo abagcinanga nje ngokufinyelela umgomo eminyakeni emibili ngaphambi komnqamulajuqu, empeleni bawudlulile ngokunyusa izinga labo. ukusetshenziswa kwe-polyester egaywe kabusha ngamaphesenti angama-36. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ezinye izinkampani eziyishumi nambili zithembise ukujoyina le nselelo kulo nyaka. Inhlangano ibikezela amaphesenti angama-20 ayo yonke i-polyester ezophinde isetshenziswe ngo-2030.

I-polyester egaywe kabusha, eyaziwa nangokuthi i-rPET, itholakala ngokuncibilikisa phansi ipulasitiki ekhona bese iphinde iphothelwe ku-polyester fiber entsha. Nakuba kunakwa kakhulu i-rPET eyenziwe ngamabhodlela epulasitiki neziqukathi ezilahlwe abathengi, empeleni i-polyethylene terephthalate ingagaywa kabusha kusukela kokubili okokufaka kwezimboni nangemuva komthengi. Kodwa, ukunikeza nje isibonelo, amabhodlela e-soda amahlanu akhiqiza i-fiber eyanele yesikibha esisodwa esikhulu.

Nakubakabusha ipulasitikikuzwakala njengombono omuhle ongenakuphikiswa, umgubho we-rPET usekude ukuba ube yizwi elilodwa emphakathini wemfashini esimeme. I-FashionUnited iqoqe izimpikiswano ezinkulu nhlangothi zombili.

I-polyester eyenziwe kabusha: izinzuzo

1. Ukugcina amapulasitiki angangeni endaweni yokulahla imfucumfucu kanye nolwandle-I-polyester egaywe kabusha inika impilo yesibili ezintweni ezingaboli futhi ezingagcina sezisendaweni yokulahla udoti noma olwandle. Ngokusho kwe-NGO Ocean Conservancy, amathani ayizigidi ezingu-8 epulasitiki angena olwandle minyaka yonke, ngaphezu kwamathani ama-metric alinganiselwa ezigidini eziyi-150 okwamanje azungeza ezindaweni zasolwandle. Uma sigcina leli jubane, ngo-2050 kuzobe sekugcwele ipulasitiki olwandle kunezinhlanzi. Ipulasitiki itholakale kumaphesenti angu-60 azo zonke izinyoni zasolwandle kanye namaphesenti angu-100 azo zonke izinhlobo zofudu lwasolwandle, ngoba benza iphutha lokudla ipulasitiki.

Ngokuqondene nendawo yokulahla imfucumfucu, i-United States Environmental Protection Agency ibike ukuthi izindawo zokulahla imfucuza zakuleli zwe zithole amathani epulasitiki angama-26 million ngo-2015 kuphela. I-EU ilinganisela inani elifanayo elizokhiqizwa minyaka yonke amalungu ayo. Izingubo ngokungangabazeki ziyingxenye enkulu yenkinga: e-UK, umbiko we-Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP) ulinganisela ukuthi izingubo ezingabiza amapondo ayizigidi ezingu-140 zigcina zisendaweni yokulahla imfucumfucu unyaka ngamunye. "Ukuthatha imfucumfucu yepulasitiki bese uyiguqula ibe into ewusizo kubaluleke kakhulu kubantu nasendaweni esihlala kuyo," kusho uKarla Magruder, Ilungu Lebhodi Le-Textile Exchange, ku-imeyili eya ku-FashionUnited.

2. I-rPET yinhle njenge-virgin polyester, kodwa ithatha izinsiza ezincane ukuze yenziwe - I-polyester egaywe kabusha icishe ifane ne-virgin polyester ngokwekhwalithi, kodwa ukukhiqizwa kwayo kudinga amandla angaphansi ngamaphesenti angu-59 uma kuqhathaniswa ne-virgin polyester, ngokocwaningo lwango-2017. yi-Swiss Federal Office for the Environment. I-WRAP ilinganisela ukukhiqizwa kwe-rPET ukunciphisa ukukhishwa kwe-CO2 ngamaphesenti angama-32 uma kuqhathaniswa ne-polyester evamile. "Uma ubheka ukuhlolwa komjikelezo wokuphila, amaphuzu e-rPET angcono kakhulu kune-PET emsulwa," kunezela uMagruder.

Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-polyester egaywe kabusha ingaba nomthelela ekwehliseni ukukhishwa kukawoyela ongahluziwe negesi yemvelo eMhlabeni ukuze kwenziwe ipulasitiki eyengeziwe. "Ukusebenzisa i-polyester egaywe kabusha kunciphisa ukuthembela kwethu ku-petroleum njengomthombo wezinto ezingavuthiwe," kusho iwebhusayithi yomkhiqizo wangaphandle i-Patagonia, eyaziwa kakhulu ngokwenza uboya bezimvu ngamabhodlela e-soda asesebenzile, imfucumfucu yokukhiqiza engasebenziseki nezingubo ezigugile. “Kunqanda ukulahlwa, ngaleyo ndlela kwandise ukuphila kwezindawo zokulahla imfucumfucu futhi kunciphise nentuthu engcolisayo ephuma ezindaweni ezishiswayo. Kuyasiza futhi ukuphromotha izindlela ezintsha zokugaywa kabusha zezimpahla ze-polyester ezingasagqoki,” kunezela ilebula.

"Ngenxa yokuthi i-polyester yenza cishe amaphesenti angu-60 okukhiqizwa kwe-PET emhlabeni - cishe kabili lokho okusetshenziswa emabhodleleni epulasitiki - ukwakhiwa kwe-non-virgin supply chain ye-polyester fiber kunamandla okuba nomthelela omkhulu emhlabeni jikelele wamandla nezimfuneko zezinsiza," kuphikisa i-American apparel brand. I-Nau, eyaziwa nangokuthi ibeka phambili izinketho zendwangu ezinzile.

I-polyester eyenziwe kabusha: i-cons

1. Ukugaywa kabusha kunemikhawulo yakho -Izembatho eziningi azenziwanga nge-polyester yodwa, kodwa kunalokho kusukela ekuhlanganiseni kwe-polyester nezinye izinto. Uma kunjalo, kuba nzima kakhulu, noma kungenzeki, ukuwasebenzisa kabusha. Kwezinye izimo, kuyenzeka ngokobuchwepheshe, ngokwesibonelo ukuhlanganisa i-polyester nokotini. Kodwa kusesezingeni lomshayeli. Inselele ukuthola izinqubo ezingakhuliswa kahle futhi asikabi khona,” kusho uMagruder ephephandabeni i-Suston ngo-2017. Ama-laminations athile kanye nokuqedwa okufakwe ezindwangu nakho kungenza ukuthi zingaphinde zisetshenziswe.

Ngisho nezingubo ezingamaphesenti angu-100 e-polyester azikwazi ukugaywa kabusha unomphela. Kunezindlela ezimbili zokusebenzisa kabusha i-PET: ngomshini nangamakhemikhali. “Ukugaywa kabusha kwemishini kuthatha ibhodlela lepulasitiki, ukuliwasha, ukulihlikihla bese kulibuyisela emshinini we-polyester, obese ulandela inqubo yokwenziwa kwemicu yendabuko. Ukugaywa kabusha kwamakhemikhali kuthatha udoti womkhiqizo wepulasitiki bese uwubuyisela kumamonomer awo asekuqaleni, angenakuhlukaniswa ne-virgin polyester. Labo bangabuyela ohlelweni olujwayelekile lokukhiqiza i-polyester,” kuchaza uMagruder kwiFashionUnited. I-rPET eminingi itholakala ngokugaywa kabusha kwemishini, njengoba ishibhe kunazo zonke kulezi zinqubo ezimbili futhi ayidingi amakhemikhali ngaphandle kwezihlanzi ezidingekayo ukuze kuhlanzwe izinto zokufakwayo. Nokho, “ngale nqubo, imicu ingaphelelwa amandla futhi ngaleyo ndlela idingeke ixutshwe ne-virgin fiber,” kuphawula i-Swiss Federal Office for the Environment.

"Iningi labantu likholelwa ukuthi amapulasitiki angakwazi ukugaywa kabusha ngokungapheli, kodwa isikhathi ngasinye lapho ipulasitiki ishiswa iyawohloka, ngakho-ke ukuphindaphinda okulandelayo kwe-polymer kuyancipha futhi ipulasitiki kumele isetshenziselwe ukwenza imikhiqizo esezingeni eliphansi," kusho uPatty Grossman, umsunguli we-polymer. Odade ababili Ecotextiles, ku-imeyili eya ku-FashionUnited. I-Textile Exchange, nokho, ithi kuwebhusayithi yayo i-rPET ingaphinda isetshenziswe iminyaka eminingi: "izingubo ezivela ku-polyester esenziwe kabusha zihlose ukuvuselelwa ngokuqhubekayo ngaphandle kokuwohloka kwekhwalithi", kubhala le nhlangano, enezela ukuthi umjikelezo wengubo ye-polyester unamandla okuba " uhlelo oluvaliwe lwe-loop” ngolunye usuku.

Labo abalandela umcabango kaGrossman baphikisa ngokuthi umhlaba kufanele ukhiqize futhi udle ipulasitiki encane ngokujwayelekile. Uma umphakathi ukholelwa ukuthi yonke into oyilahlayo ingase igaywe kabusha, cishe ngeke uyibone inkinga ngokuqhubeka nokudla izimpahla zepulasitiki ezilahlwayo. Ngeshwa, ingxenye encane kuphela yepulasitiki esiyisebenzisayo igaywa kabusha. E-United States, amaphesenti angu-9 kuphela awo wonke amapulasitiki aphinde asetshenziswa kabusha ngo-2015, ngokusho kwe-US Environmental Protection Agency.

Labo abafuna umbono ongajabulisi kangako we-rPET bavikela ukuthi izinhlobo zemfashini nabathengi kufanele bakhuthazwe ukuthi bathande imicu yemvelo ngangokunokwenzeka. Phela, nakuba i-rPET ithatha amandla angaphansi ngamaphesenti angu-59 ukukhiqiza kune-polyester emsulwa, isadinga amandla angaphezu kwe-hemp, uvolo kanye nokotini wemvelo novamile, ngokombiko ka-2010 ovela eStockholm Environment Institute.